- Driverless (UVC) is the whole requirement
- A browser only sees standard cameras and microphones (UVC video, UAC audio). If the device needs a driver installed, it won't show up.
- USB 3, straight into the computer
- Use a USB 3 port on the computer itself — no hubs, no unpowered extension cables. USB 2.0 devices compress the picture or drop the frame rate.
- Watch out for HDCP
- Game consoles, Blu-ray players, streaming sticks and some cable boxes encrypt their HDMI, which gives you a black picture. Cameras and computers don't.
- Set your camera to clean HDMI out
- Turn off on-screen overlays and auto power-off, and pick a standard format such as 1080p30 or 1080p60.
- 1080p30 is plenty
- It's the most dependable choice for most shows. Reach for 1080p60 when there's sport or fast motion.
- Match frame rates
- Keep the camera and the show on the same family (29.97/59.94 or 25/50), or use a device with hardware frame-rate conversion, such as the Magewell or the Epiphan.
- Short, good cables
- A certified HDMI cable of 3 m (10 ft) or less, and a short USB 3 cable of 1–2 m.
- Vendor apps: use, then close
- A maker's utility is sometimes needed for firmware, EDID or audio settings. Close it before going live — it can hold on to the device.
- Test before the show
- Open Go live, pick the device, and check the picture, the frame rate and the audio meters well before doors.